An Old Friend Visits Our Little Corner of Italy

Recently an old friend came to visit us here in Soriano, and she stayed in town for a couple of days. We went to summer music camp together when I was 14; the next time I saw her was about 30 years later when she happened to be in Nashville on the night of our final concert in our symphony gigs, a week or two before we quit and moved to Italy.

It has been pretty surreal to see my friend here now! A whirlwind of memories.

She did a little sightseeing on her own when we were working, and then we took her to see (and eat at) some places we love in our area. Ferento, the ancient Roman theater, set out in the countryside. We have visited many times and rarely seen anyone there. We also took her to Celleno, the “borgo fantasma” (ghost town), which is like a little Civita di Bagnoregio —accessible only by footbridge. Celleno’s footbridge is much smaller than Civita’s, but it is really off the beaten path so there are no big crowds, and no selfie sticks.

We also went up to the Faggeta, the UNESCO beechwood forest at the top of Monte Cimino, which is only about 10 minutes from our house. As you drive up there, the summer heat melts away and a fresh cool breeze greets you, even in July. Pliny the Elder wrote about this forest, 2000 years ago, in particular mentioning the Sasso Naticarello, a huge boulder nicknamed the “Trembling Stone” because it is said that you can move this bus-size boulder if you manipulate it just right with a branch. Andrea gave it a try, and couldn’t move it (we have never been able to move it either). We joked that the local government probably has a hidden camera up there to watch people desperately try to wiggle the rock.

This area is so beautiful, with so many historic and quirky sights, and it is overlooked by most tourists, who head north to Tuscany. We love it there too, but we are so grateful to live here.